Dating vintage costume jewelry
The information will be of benefit in the identification of authentic Designer Costume Jewelry in general.
As you advance, you'll develop a certain kind of "expertise" in identifying costume jewelry, according to the particular designer's preferences, what I call, their individual "signatures" which is a different thing altogether to their jewelry marks. Many unsigned pieces are extravagant, beautiful, rare and valuable.
On rings, the signature is also usually very small and, frequently.
is lightly engraved or stamped somewhere on the inside or outside of the band.
I'm not yet certain this signature is from this time period, but strongly suspect so.
Circa mid 70s to mid-80s: Copyright and registration trademarks began to appear on Chanel costume jewelry around the time Alain Wertheimer took control of Chanel in 1974.
As previously, much of her costume jewelry was designed and produced to accompany her clothing.
Many of the pieces from this time period are marked simply as CHANEL, usually stamped directly on the piece itself.
Circa 1986 through 1992: Karl Lagerfeld was appointed the creative director and head designer for Chanel in 1983.
Shortly thereafter, he hired Victoire de Castellane to oversee the designs for Chanel's costume jewelry, where she remained until 1998 .
Another change for Chanel is its addition of earrings for pierced ears, and rings.
Earrings for pierced ears, which are much smaller than the clip earrings previously standard for Chanel, may have a harder-to-find signature because there's very limited space available on the piece.
The signature plate typical of the mid-70s to early 80s includes the signature CHANEL CC MADE IN FRANCE stamped on a round plate or sometimes on the piece itself.